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The Cruise of 
The Ksti serin 



BY 



T. T. EATON, ©./)., LL.D, 



WITH 



Poetical Narrative 



BY 



MARTIN LUTHER RERGER, 2). 2). 



LOTJISVILLE, KY.: 

BAPTIST BOOK CONCERN, 
1903. 



■Tht L:bRARY OF 
CCNijRESS, 

Two Copies Received 

MAY I 1903 

Copynghl tntry 

CLASS ci^ XXo, No. 
COPY B, 



Copyright by T. T. EATON. 



^ 



N 



X. 



I> 



PREFACE. 

This volume was undertaken in accordance with the 
expressed wish of a large number of the tourists on 
board the Kaiserin. The poem by Dr. Berger was 
written for the pleasure of his children, grand children 
and special friends, and not with any thought of publi- 
cation. It was so much enjoyed by those who heard it 
read on board, however, that there was a general de- 
mand for its publication. The illustrations are from 
photographs taken on the spots, and for these special 
acknowledgement is due to Mr. S. L. Schumo and Mr, 
J. C. Stephenson. The notes I have added are designed 
to cover the chief points of interest connected with the 
places visited, so as to make the book as valuable as 
practicable. It is hoped it will be of interest both to 
the tourists with their friends and to others who may 
be willing to look at these wonderful islands through 
our eyes. 



^ Our Start. 



We were from twenty-seven states and represented 
various callings and walks of life. All going on the 
same errand and to the same destination, we had little 
trouble in establishing good fellowship, and some who 
met as strangers parted as good friends. 

The voyage was remarkably smooth, though the mo- 
tion of the ship was enough the first day at sea to upset 
some who were peculiarly susceptible to the mal de mer, 
and there were some significantly vacant places at the 
table. 

By the second day it was evident that we were going 
into a milder clime and wraps were laid aside. By the 
third day the patches of bright sargossa, or gulf weed, 
growing on the surface of the sea, told us we were 
drawing near the tropics, and the flying fish confirmed 
the story. It was surprising how long these little 
creatures could stay above the water. Some of the 
flights we witnessed must have covered one thousand 
feet. To our right lay the "sea of sargossa" in which 
ships of the old style sometimes got fouled by the thick 
growth of this strange water plant. 

On Sunday we had worship on deck, and the writer 
had the pleasure of preaching to a most attentive con- 
gregation on faith. Drs. Berger and Compton took 
part. The smooth sea, the bright sunshine, the deep 
and rich blue of the water, the flying fish and our 
thoughts of reaching our first landing place next morn- 



10 



TEE CRUISE OF 



ing, occupied our minds as we sat on deck through the 
day. 

Dr. C. J. Fletcher told us Saturday night about the 
islands we would visit and exhibited to us pictures of 
the scenes we would witness. He did this twice after- 
wards, and in the three lectures covered the entire trip. 

Monday morning we are out early and land is in 




sight. It is Porto Rico, our new possession. Why do 
we not land there? has been asked over and over again. 
And the answer has been made, over and over again, 
that the United States do not allow foreign vessels to 
carry passengers from one American port to another, 
and since we sailed from New York, and Porto Rico 
now belongs to us, we cannot land from a German 
:ship. The island is beautiful and is like an emerald in 



TEE KAISERIN. 11 



a sea of safphire. The hills are, however, not so heavily 
wooded as we supposed. Yonder in front is Ship Rock, 
a little island of rock in shape so like an old ship of 
the line in full sail, that a French commander once 
mistook it for an enemy's vessel and fired a broadside 
at it. To our left is the island of St. Thomas, and here 
we come into the harbor of Charlotte Amalie. 



ST. THOMAS. 



This is one of the Virgin Islands, so named by Colum- 
bus because he discovered them on St. Ursula's day. 
St. Ursula, the story goes, in her piety started with 
11,000 other virgins on a pilgrimage to Rome, and they 
were all murdered near Cologne. In that city there is 
a church whose walls are hollow and filled with bones 
which, the tourist is told, are the bones of these 11,000 
virgins. 

St. Thomas belongs to Denmark. It was bought by 
Secretary Seward for the United States for |5,000,000, 
but the United States Senate refused to ratify the pur- 
chase. Negotiations are again pending, and the result 
will depend largely on the decision of a commission 
soon to be sent to these islands from Copenhagen. The 
island is thirteen miles long and three miles wide, con- 
taining thirty-three square miles, and has a population 
of 14,500, of whom there are 3,000 more females than 
males, and the large majority are Negroes, as is true in 
nearly all these islands. 

Columbus landed here in 1493, and in 1657 the 
Dutch planted a colony, and they have held possession 



12 



THE CRUISE OF 



ever since. The neutrality of Denmark in the wars 
made Charlotte Amalie an important point, and in our 
American war it was a resort of blockade runners. The 
city has 10,000 population. 

On anchoring we are greeted with cries from men in 
boats calling to us to throw coins into the water. 
When a coin is thrown in they dive for it and almost 
invariably get it. The water is clear and the diver's 




CHARLOTTE AMALIE, ST. THOMAS. 

movements under the water can be plainly seen. Some- 
times when two or three dive for the same coin there 
is a lively submarine struggle. The diver's mouth is 
his pocket. We tried to fill one's mouth with copper 
coin, but after he had put away fourteen thus the con- 
clusion was that he swallowed them, and we desisted. 
The Blue Beard Castle and the Black Beard Castle 
are interesting relics of former grandeur. It must be 
remembered that these islands were settled a century 



THE KAISERIN. 13 



before the Pilgrims lauded at Plymouth, or Jamestown 
was settled. Ou the side of a hill is the building where 
Gen. Santa Anna lived while in exile from Mexico. 

The English language predominates, though Danish 
is the official tongue. Amid the luxuriant tropical 
growths there is withal an air of decay and departed 
grandeur. The Russian Consul's garden presents a 
fine display of trees and shrubs, and is specially rich 
in crotons. Here we eat our first cocoanuts, and learn 
liow to eat them. We take the green fruit as it comes 
from the tree, cut off the end and pour out the liquid 
into glasses. What we know as cocoanut meat is not 
jet formed, but it is all liquid, making a refreshing 
drink. Thus we get the real ''milk of the cocoanut." 

There is a soft sleepy air over the island and the 
people, which prevails over all the West Indies, and 
one thinks what a place for the dolce far niente. The 
people present a great variety of race and color, though 
Negroes predominate. Trollope described the city as 
-"a niggery Hispano, Dano, Yankee Doodle sort of place, 
with a flavor of Sherrv cobbler." 



ST, KITTS {Christopher. 



Columbus thought the two mountains on this island 
resembled the saint bearing the infant Christ, and so 
called it St. Christopher, It is a British crown colony, 
with Basse Terre — 7,000 population — as capital. Mt. 
Misery, in the distance, rises 4,100 feet, and wild 
monkeys are found there. There are wild dogs on the 
island of Barbuda, also British. The island is twenty- 



14 



THE CRUISE OF 



three miles long and five miles wide, contaiiiing sixty- 
three square miles. Here we find siigar plantations. 
This was once a source of great revenue, but the indus- 
trial system has never recovered from emancipation. 




"uncle EEMUS," ST. THOMAS. 

and, between that and the low price of sugar, depres- 
sion has followed. Land that once brought |1,000 an 
acre is now given up to jungle. Butterfles abound of 
great variety, some of them gorgeous. One sort carry 
an electric light on each shoulder. The males migrate 



TEE KAI8EBIN. 15: 



by millions Southward and never return. What be- 
comes of them is a niyster3\ The females never mi- 
grate. There are many sorts of humming birds which 
flit about like winged jewels. 

The Botanical Garden presents a fine assortment of 
strange trees and flowers. The cocoanut, the trav- 
eler's palm, the ceiba, the breadfruit, the nutmeg, the 
pepper tree, the almond, &c., &c. Many of the party 
learn for the first time that mace grows on the outside 
of the nutmegs. The people call themselves Kitte- 
bonians, and there are in the island some 30,000 of 
them, mostly black. This is the mother colony of the 
Caribees, because here were the first English and 
French settlements, from which the other islands were 
settled. In 1690 the English expelled the French. 
We can never forget the kindness shown our party by 
Dr. Haven, the American consul, and his accomplished 
wife. It was an elegant reception they gave us in the 
Government house, kindly furnished by the officials 
for the purpose, and for which our company returned 
formal thanks. 



NEVIS. - 

A narrow channel (two miles at the narrowest point) 
divides Nevis from St. Kitts, with which it forms one 
British presidency. Here our great American states- 
man, Alexander Hamilton, was born. Here, too. Ad- 
miral Lord Nelson, the hero of Trafagar, wooed and 
won the beautiful Mrs. Nesbitt, whom he afterward 
shamefully abandoned for Lady Hamilton. Columbus 



16 



THE CRUISE OF 



called the island Nievis in honor of ''Our Lady of the 
Snow," but it soon became, on English tongues, 
''Nevis." The population is between 13,000 and 14,000, 
of whom nearly all are Negroes. Charlestown, the 
capital, was once a famous place, and here gathered 
the wealth and fashion of all these islands. The ruins 
of an immense hotel near the sulphur baths, tell the 




COCOANUT PALM. 



story of departed glory. There is general decay visible 
everj^where. 



MONTSEBBAT. 



In sight of Nevis to the Southeast is the interesting 
island of Montserrat, settled by Irish, and where all the 
people, including the Negroes, have the Irish brogue. 



THE KAISERIW. 17 



Columbus named the island in 1493, in honor of a 
mountain in Spain. It has 12,000 population. It is 
the only Irish island. A Negro from this island once 
spoke to an Irishman at St. Kitts, the story goes, and 
noticing the brogue, Pat asked in surprise, ''And how 
long have yer been here?" The answer was, 'Thray 
months." "Thray months!" shouted Pat, ''and that 
black already! Be the powers, I'll not stay amongst 
vez !" 



ANTIGUA. 



Named by Columbus after "St. Mary of Antigua of 
Seville," this island lost all its name but the center, 
and that is enough. It is the chief of the Leeward 
group, and was long regarded as the most valuable of 
the British possessions in the Lesser Antilles. It was 
the headquarters of the British admiralty during the 
wars with France and is now the headquarters of this 
group. The Governor resides here. There are 36,000 
population, of whom only some 2,000 are white. The 
island, 108 square miles, and is owned by sixty people. 
The capital, St. Johns, is a clean town with good roads 
in different directions. Here are extensive quarters 
prepared for Boer prisoners who did not come. Here 
is a leper colony, larger than the one at St. Kitts, for 
that foul disease infects these beautiful islands. The 
men and the women are put in separate camps. 

Out from the capital, and even in its borders, the 
people live in thatched cottages and in very simple 
style. They are very superstitious. For example, they 
believe that jumbi (evil spirits) live in the silk cotton 



18 



TEE CRUISE OF 



(ceiba) trees, and bring bad luck to their victims. 
Yarions incantations and otlier means are used to pro- 
pitiate these horrid jumbi. There is a medium sized 
bean, red and black, which grows on the mountain 
sides and which is supposed to protect its possessor 
from the evil power of the jumbi, and so it is called the 
"jumbi bean." Among the people of all these islands 




WOMEN COALING SHIP. 



comparatively little respect is paid to marriage. The 
women do most of the hard work, coal ships, carry 
produce to market, &c., &c., and they dismiss their 
husbands (?) at pleasure. They are large and strong, 
as a rule. This does not apply to the Europeans, but to 
the blacks and to those of mixed blood. 

From Antigua we sail by Guadaloupe, a French 
island, the largest of the Caribees, 600 square miles 



THE EAISERIN. 21 



and 167,000 population, including its dependencies. 
This island has fourteen extinct volcanoes. We also 
sail past Dominica where there is a colony of Caribs, 
the great tribe of Indians who gave their name to the 
Caribbean Sea. Columbus called this place Dominica 
because he discovered it on Sunday. It has 290 square 
miles and 27,000 population. 



MARTINIQUE. 



Here the gaze of the world has been fixed since May 
8, 1902, when Mt. Pelee did its deadly work, and de- 
stroyed the beautiful city of St. Pierre, the largest and 
most prosperous city in all these islands — 35,000 popu- 
lation. Prof. Heilprin says the entire population were 
killed in the space of two minutes. In the annals of 
ghastliness St. Pierre surpasses Pompeii and Hercu- 
laneum. These islands are all volcanic. They are the 
tops of a volcanic range that has been submerged. 
Counting from the top to the bottom of the slope here 
are the highest mountains in America. The slope goes 
on to the bottom of the sea. The deepest place in the 
Atlantic Ocean is a little North of Porto Rico, where 
there is a depth of 4,500 fathoms. This range of sub- 
merged — or largely submerged — mountains, is entirely 
different from the ranges of North and South America. 
The highest point is in San Domingo, where there is an 
elevation of 12,000 feet above the sea. And the slope 
goes down from the shore to a depth of 18,000 feet more, 
making a mountain, in all, 30,000 feet high. Mt. Ever- 



22 



THE CRUISE OF 



est, reckoned the highest mountain in the world, rises 
to an elevation of only 29,002 feet. 

Martinique is the favorite colony of France. It has 
381 square miles, and, before the disaster, had 187,000 
population. It has a senator and two deputies in the 
National Assembly in Paris. Here is the home, along 
with Dominica, of the dreaded fer-de-lance. the dead- 




BASSE TERRE^ ST. KITTS. 

liest of all snakes. It is three to four feet long, and of 
a reddish brown color. On some of the islands this 
reptile has been exterminated by the mongoose, spe- 
cially introduced for the purpose, but not here. Forests 
abound and the vegetable growth is most luxuriant. 
The people are largely of mixed blood, the Negro race 
predominating, though not to the extent found in the 



TEE KAI8ERIN. 23 



British islands. There is a large infusion of Carib 
blood, and to this some writers have attributed the 
beautj^ of the Martinique women. All the writers from 
Pere Labat to Prof. Hill have praised the beauty of 
the women of Martinique, so I was on the lookout for 
pretty women, and must confess I was greatly disap- 
pointed. There were only three really beautiful women 
who came within my horizon, in my observations on 
the island. One can but wonder what these writers 
would have written about the beauty of the women had 
they visited the States. Kentucky for example. We 
had far more beauty on board the ship than we found 
on shore, in all those islands. The handsomest woman 
we saw on St. Kitts was a lady from Chicago, the wife 
of the American consul. 



FORT DE FRANCE. 



This is the capital of Martinique (12,000 population) 
and the French headquarters for these islands. It is a 
very pretty city and presents many attractions. Here 
the Empress Josephine was born and reared, the home 
of the Le Pagerie family being off a little to the right. 
In the park fronting the harbor stands the splendid 
marble statue of Josephine, of heroic size and sur- 
rounded by royal palms, bowing their heads and tossing 
their crowns, as if in recognition of the beautiful em- 
press. This statue was erected by the people of Mar- 
tinique, in 1858. In front is a bronze representation of 



24 THE CRUISE OF 



the crowning of the Empress. On the rear is : 

"Nee Le XXIII. Juin MDCCLXIII." 

On the rear we find : 

"L'An MDCCCLVIII 

Napoleon III Kegnant 

Les Habitants de la Martinique 

Out Eleve Ce Monument. 

A L'Imperatriee Josephine. 

Xee Dans Cette Colonie." 

On the left side is engraved: 

"Mariee Le IX, Mars MDCCXCVI." 

The people regard Josephine as the patron saint of 
the island. Here, too, lived Madame de Maintenon, 
who became so famous in the salons of Paris. 

On a hill back of the city is a little house where lives 
his sable majesty Behanzin, the deposed King of 
Dahomey. He is allowed to have only four of his 
wives, though he was allowed to select them. He stood 
in the door, as the visitors stood on the porch. He held 
a red and blue blanket about his person with his left 
hand, while with his right he held a long stemmed pipe 
which he kept puffing. To his right stood an attendant 
with a cuspidor to receive the vojal saliva which was 
deposited at short intervals. His shoulders and arms 
were bare. On his head was a high purple cap, with 
gold lace and coming to a point. He wore sandals, but 
his feet were bare. His finger and toe nails were very 
long and kept very white. That was the only thing 



THE KAI8ERIN. 



25 



about him that showed special care. Holding his pipe 
in his mouth firmly, he shook hands with us, holding 
his right wrist high in air with the hand inclined down- 
ward, very much like the fashionable hand-shake to-day. 
He has been a captive some nine years, and will prob- 
ably die in captivity. 

The market of Fort De France is a place of special 
interest. The chattering throng are mostly women, 




AMERICAN CONSULATE, BASSE TERRE. 

both buyers and sellers. The women bring in their 
products in baskets on their heads, some of them walk- 
ing ten or twelve miles. If on any day the load is 
lighter than usual they fill in stones till the accustomed 
weight is reached. These women often quarrel and 
sometimes fight. In fighting they do not pull hair and 
scratch, as we would suppose, but they run their heads 
at each other and butt. They butt again and again 
until the enemy is overthrown or takes to flight. 



26 THE CRUISE OF 



Perhaps the most interesting sight in the market here, 
as well as at other points visited, is where the fish are 
sold. Here are fish of every variety of form and color. 
Bright red, bright blue, dark bhie, green, yellow, mixed, 
etc. It was a sight worth seeing. They have curious 
names, too, e. g., ''The good God handled me." 

Fort De France was formerly Fort Royal, but with 
the Republic came the change of name. Columbus 
landed here in A. D. 1502, in July. The French settled 
here in 1665, and with the exception of the British 
possession of twenty-two years — 1794 to 1816 — it has 
been French ever since. And it is thoroughly Frenchy. 
There are fewer beggars here than on the other islands 
we had visited. 



ST. PIERRE. 



The desolation here beggars description. The apall- 
ing disaster of May 8, 1902, has been added to by the 
subsequent explosions. On August 30th the beautiful 
village of Morn Rouge was destroyed and 2,000 more 
lives sacrificed. Mt. Pelee is, or was, 4,500 feet high. 
It had a terrible outbreak in A. D. 1812, since which 
time it was quiet, and a beautiful lake occupied the 
crater. The city of St. Pierre was crowded with people 
from the surrounding region who were frightened at 
the explosions of Pelee and fled to the city for safety. 
At 8:30 A. M., May 8th, an explosion opened the side 
of the mountain toward St. Pierre and forming a new 
crater sent a heavy black cloud, shot through with fire, 
over the doomed city, and experts tell us the whole 



THE KAI SERIN. 



27 



population perished in two minntes. Only one man sur- 
vived — Joseph Silbarace — a Negro, who was in a cell in 
the jail and who thus escaped though he was horribly 
burned. Our party were glad to see him. Everything 
combustible in the city was burned and the walls of the 
houses were more or less broken down. Then heavy 
ashes fell over everything. Utter desolation overspreads 




SUGAR MILL, ST. KITTS. 

the ruined city and it is easy in the ashes to uncover 
human skulls and bones of those who perished. Many 
such grim mementos were carried away, along with 
many other things. Little has been done in the way of 
excavating. The cemetery was less injured than the 
city and there was a peculiar pathos about it. Those 
who should be caring for these graves have themselves 
perished and are unsepulchred. 



28 - THE CRUISE OF 



We were at St. Pierre from 11 :30 A. M. to 9 P. M. 
on Friday, January 23d, and on the following Sunday 
morning Petee had a terrible explosion, blowing off 
800 feet of one side of the crater. While we were there, 
the top Avas covered with heavy sulphurous clouds and 
there were slight rumblings, though no explosion. Just 
the day before we reached St. Vincent, Mt. Soufriere 
had a fine explosion which were too late to see. We 
regretted missing these sights. 



ST. LUCIA. 

We sail by St. Lucia without landing. Here Lord 
Rodney destroyed the fleet of Count De Grasse, and 
established British supremacy in these islands, recov- 
ering what England had lost and taking more from 
France. It was one of the greatest sea fights in the 
world. It is difficult to understand how it was that 
Great Britain set more store by these islands than she 
did by the thirteen colonies on the continent, which she 
lost by the war of the Revolution. The British felt that 
the loss of the colonies was a small affair compared 
with their saving and securing these island possessions. 
The smallest one of those American colonies is now 
worth far more than all these islands, and the people 
of these islands long to come under the United States, 
recognizing that this is essential to their prosperity. 
Only the officials oppose annexation to this country. 
They like their positions. 



8T. VINCENT. 
The island of St. Vincent was discovered by Colum- 



THE EAI8ERIN. 



29 



bus in A. D. 1498. It has 132 square miles and 42,000 
population of whom 30,000 are Negroes. Sugar is the 
chief product. Mt. Soufriere, the sister of Mt. Pelee, 
in its recent eruption killed 8,000 people and devasted 
one-third of the island. There was a like eruption, 
both of Pelee and Soufriere, in A. D. 1812, and the two 
volcanoes act together. This time neither from Pelee 




ox TEAM ON SUGAR PLANTATION. 

nor from Soufriere did there come any lava, but only 
pumice stone and immense quantities of heavy ashes. 
Prof. Heilprin and others estimate that the volume of 
matter thrown out by Pelee is equal to one-third of 
the island of Martinique. What an immense cavity was 
thus caused in the earth, and when the walls of that 
cavity give way — what? We can only conjecture. 
On the island there is a village of Caribs, who are 



30 THE CRUISE OF 



driven from their reservation "by Soufriere's rage," as 
Dr. Berger puts it, and wlio occupy fresh quarters pre- 
pared for them by the British government. This is a 
feeble remnant of a mighty race, that held the Spanish 
at bay on some of these islands for a century. They 
are a very interesting race, too. Though they ate their 
captured enemies and were brave, they were gentle to 
each other. There were no words of denunciation in 
their language except coward, and they believed that 
cowards after death went to a region of deserts and 
rugged mountains, while the brave went to an abode 
of happiness. A man's wife was ''my heart." A boy 
was "a little man." Fingers were "the babes of the 
hand." The rainbow was "God's plume." They called 
themselves "Banari," which means "come from over 
sea." Froude says, "As to their religion, they had no 
objection to anything." This is quite a popular atti- 
tude toward religion in some quarters to day. The 
Caribs make baskets that are much sought after. 

The city of Kingstown (6,000 population) is the 
capital of St. Vincent, and it is a pretty and a clean 
place, Avith signs of decay all around. Beggars abound 
in all these islands. It is almost as bad as Southern 
Italy. The Botanic Garden is the finest I ever saw. 
Here are ninety varieties of palm trees, along with 
coffee, pepper, lime, nutmeg, almond, bread fruit, ma- 
hogany, satin wood, teak, ebony, chocolate, india rub- 
ber, cotton, banyan, lace bark, cannon ball trees, &c., 
&c. The cotton of the Southern States here, unkilled 
by winter, grows into a tree. This cannon ball tree is 
tall, and has a ball something like grape fruit, which 



THE KAISERIN. 



S3 



when it ripens drops, and on striking the ground ex- 
plodes violently — hence its name. 

CLIMATE. 

It is summer all the time, though the temperature 
varies with the wind and Avith the rain. In winter the 
air is moist and the heat is rendered more unpleasant. 




NOAH'S AEK, ST. KITTS. 

The books say it never gets very warm down here, but 
we found it hot — with the thermometer 96 degrees in 
the shade in St. Vincent. The winds modify the heat, 
but when they lull the heat becomes uncomfortable. 
One of the winds is called ''the doctor." The houses 
are built only for warm weather, so as to let in air and 
keep out sun and rain. Fire is only for cooking. I 
asked a native, "Does it ever get cold here?" ''Oh! 
yes !" said he, "cold come here ; cold come in nose." 



34 THE CRUISE OF 



His only idea of cold was a cold in the head, and that 
has all climates for its own. 

We were delightfully surprised not to be bothered 
Avith insects. Though we got meals on shore, we were 
not annoyed by flies. We saw no mosquitos till we 
reached Nassau. There must be mosquitos in these 
parts, however, for James Anthony Froude, who spent 
a winter here, tells of "mosquitos, who for blood- 
thirsty ferocity had a bad pre-eminence over the worst 
that I ever met elsewhere Bewick, with the in- 
spiration of genius, had drawn his exact likeness as 
the devil." 

The beautiful blue of the sea is beyond description. 
Froude says : "I have seen the sea of very beautiful 
colors in several parts of the world, but never saw any 
which equalled this." And Charles Kingsley, after ex- 
hausting his vocabulary of praise on the subject, says: 
"If the reader fancies that I exaggerate, let him go and 
see. Let him lie for one hour ofl: the Rosseau at Do- 
minica. Let him sail down the leeward side of Gaud- 
aloupe, down the leeward side of what island he will, 
and judge for himself how poor and yet how tawdry 
my words are, compared with the lucious yet magnifi- 
cent coloring of the Antilles." 

The visitor is struck with the shortness of the twi- 
light. The sun drops below the horizon, and in a very 
few minutes it is dark. The stars, however, shine with 
new brilliancy. At this season the famous constella- 
tion, the Southern Cross, can be here seen by rising at 
4. A. M. This great constellation, of course, is not so 
bright here as farther South, where it is higher above 
, the horizon, and can be seen through less atmosphere. 



THE KAISERIN. 35 

Yet even here it is worth a journey to see. The show- 
ers down here descend with surprising violence. A 
harmless looking cloud comes along, and you think that 
shower not worth avoiding, but when it strikes you it 
seems "as if the bottom of the heavenly hogshead had 
been knocked out," as a Boston man expressed it. 




BRIDGE OF VINES, ST. KITTS 

BARBADOS. 

Our itinerary included Barbados, but we did not 
land there because the small pox was raging, and had 
we landed the other points we wished to visit would 
have quarantined against us. On this island the strug- 
gle for existence has reached its highest point. All 
the available land is under cultivation, and wages are 
at the lowest point. There are 186,000 people on the 



36 THE CRUISE OF 



island, or 1,120 to the square mile. The capital, Bridg- 
town, is the headquarters of the Royal Mail (British) 
steamship line. The blacks outnumber the whites 8 to 
1. To this island is the only foreign voyage George 
AYashington ever took, and here he had small pox. 
Here is the only statue of Oliver Cromwell in the Brit- 
ish Empire. It is curious that the statue of Lord Nel- 
son should be painted pea green. Sugar is the one in- 
dustry. The island is healthful, and the people seem 
happy in their poverty. James Anthony Fronde says 
along this line : "If happiness be the be all and end all 
of life, and those who have most of it have most com- 
pletely attained the object of their being, the 'Nigger' 
who now basks among the ruins of the West Indian 
plantations is the supremest specimen of present hu- 
manity." Froude also says they are never fully awake 
except at meal time. 

Off to the South of us lies Tobago — Robinson Cru- 
soe's island, whose chief interest is this fact. Alex- 
ander Selkirk was on the island of Juan Fernandez, 
off the AVest coast of South America. But Defoe de- 
scribes the island of Robinson Crusoe as off the mouth 
of the Orinoco river, and that fixes the locality. Trin- 
idad — named by Columbus in honor of the Trinity — 
is a most interesting island of 1,754 square miles and 
248,804 population, mostly Negroes, as usual. It is 
British. Its characteristics are South American. Its 
chief curiosity is the natural asphalt lake, which a 
company of Americans have leased, and from which 
they are getting rich. The President of the company 
has built a |750,000 residence. When a lot of this 
asphalt is dug out and carried away, the hole soon fills 



THE KAISEBIN. 



37 



up with more asphalt, and thus the supply seems to be 
inexhaustible. There are many Hindoos there. 



JAMAICA. 
It is nearly a 1,000 mile run from St. Vincent to Ja- 




STKEET IN BASSE TEERE. 

maica. The first day out is Sunday, and our party 
gather for worship on deck at 11 a. m. Dr. Charles 
A. Stoddard conducts the worship, while Dr. Martin 
Luther Berger preaches the sermon. The ship band 
discourse sweet music. Dr. Berger's subject was the 
human touch, and he impressively showed the power 
of personal influence. He closed with an original 
poem, which so charmed his hearers, that by the re- 



38 THE CRUISE OP 



quest of many it is included in his poem published 
in this volume. 

We reach Port Royal, on the point of land running 
out to enclose the spacious harbor of Kingston. In A. 
D, 1692, an earthquake sank Port Royal below the sur- 
face of the sea, and it was long claimed that when the 
water was smooth houses and church spires could be 
seen below from boats. It is even now claimed that oc- 
casionally signs of the sunken city are visible, but we 
saw no sign. But another Port Royal has arisen on 
this point, ready for the next earthquake. 

Jamaica was discovered by Columbus A. D. 1494. 
It contains 4,218 square miles (Porto Rico has 3,550) 
and 639,491 population (Porto Rico has 806,708). It 
has 114 rivers and creeks, and this led the Indians to 
call it Xaj^maica, or "Isle of Springs." Columbus 
named the island St. Jago, but the Carib name, 
changed slightly to Jamaica, carried the day. The 
population of the island has decreased in twenty years 
by about 60,000. It became British under Cromw^ell 
in A. D. 1655. Here Columbus was stranded on his 
third voyage. Here, too, were the headqua!rters of the 
Buccaneers. It is interesting to note that it is in con- 
nection with robbery that the Carib language has 
found its way into English. Buccaneer comes from 
Tjucan, the Carib name for dried beef, which formed an 
important part of the food of those sea robbers, and 
gave them their name. Henry Morgan, the famous 
corsair, here had his home. 

"Linked with one virtue and a thousand crimes." 
He was knighted for his services ( ?) and afterward 
was appointed Governor of Jamaica. 



THE KAI8EKIN. 



39 



KINGSTON. 



We land at Kingston, a goodly city of over 40,000 
population. Instinctively we look around for Tom 
Cringle, with his custard apple, and we want to meet 
Aaron Bangs — creations of the genius of Michael 
Scott, '"a native of Glasgow," who lived here from A. 




ST. JOHNS, ANTIGUA. 

D. 1806 to 1822. The tourist naturally thinks of Gov. 
Eyre and of Gordon. Gov. Eyre has been severely cen- 
sured for his severity in suppressing the blacks and in 
hanging Gordon, their leader, but it is claimed that 
only thus could a massacre of the whites, like that ac- 
complished in Hayti, have been prevented. Much of 
the history of Jamaica has been grim enough. While 
the buildings of Kingston are not particularly attrac- 
tive, I do not think Trollope was warranted in what he 



40 THE CRUIHE OF 



said of their ugliness. The most interesting part of 
the city is its suburbs — Hope Gardens, where is a great 
collections of trees, flowers and fruits — Constance 
Spring, with its splendid hotel and the Bog Walk, with 
its charming scenery and foilage. Unlike the islands 
already visited, many of the market women here have 
donkeys to cari'y their burdens for them. 

Yonder, rising to more than 7,000 feet, are the Blue 
Mountains, on whose sides grows the famous "Blue 
Mountain Coffee," none of which is consumed on the 
island, but all is carefully sent to England. On the 
mountain side yonder, over 3,000 feet high, is the camp 
of the British white troops, the location being chosen 
with a view to their health. The troops in the city 
are black. Here, as elsewhere, the Negroes are in the 
overwhelming majority, outnumbering the whites 40 
to 1. There are 10,000 Hindoos on the island. Froude 
prophesied that blacks were increasing so fast and the 
whites diminishing so fast, that Jamaica in a few 
years would be another Haj'ti. 

From Kingston we go by train fourteen miles to 
Spanish Town, noting by the way the fields of bananas 
and pineapples, the results of American enterprise. 
Spanish Town — called originally Santiago de la 
Vega — was settled by Diego Columbus A .D. 1525, and 
it is now a sleepy old town. The chief objects of in- 
terest are the handsome capitol building (unused), 
Avith its fine statue of Lord Rodney, and the old church 
with its graves and tombstones. One of these is of 
special interest to Americans, for it marks the grave of 
Commandant G. W. Reed, of the U. S. ship Vixen, cap- 
tured in the war of 1812, who died there a prisoner of 



THE KAISERIN. 



43 



war Id 1813, and who, though offered a parole, refused 
to abandon his men in captivity, and so died of fever. 
Another railroad, built by Mr. George Latham, a 
civil engineer from Virginia, runs from Kingston to 
Port Antonio. In building this road it was found 
needful to import Negroes from Alabama, who did 
three or four times as much work a day as could be 




LEPER COLONY, ANTIGUA. 



got out of the natives. Some of our party crossed the 
island on this road and rejoined the rest at Port An- 
tonio. We had been told that our soiled linen could be 
cleansed at Kingston, and so many packages were sent 
ashore. All was returned except a lot that was in 
charge of a laundress who lived on Humbug Lane. 
This lot, however, was sent across to Port Antonio, 
and was delivered to the owners. 



44 THE CRUISE OF 



The most hopeful feature in the outlook of Jamaica 
is the fact that Americans from Boston and Philadel- 
phia are taking hold of the fruit industry. So far only 
one-fourth of the island is under cultivation, and the 
soil is very fertile. But for the fear of Negro domina- 
tion and the state of morals (half the births on the 
island are illegitimate) there seems no reason why 
Jamaica should not prosper, if suitable trade regula- 
tions can be made with this country. All tropical 
fruits and spices flourish here. Allspice is native, and 
ginger here reaches its perfection. Surely Jamaica 
a future. 



HAYTI. 

Sailing around the Eastern end of Jamaica, we are 
near Hayti — sad Hayti ! When in the French Revolu- 
tion ^'liberty, equality and fraternity" were declared, 
and the Negroes in Hayti were freed, they arose and 
massacred the entire white population. Not many 
years ago the blacks, determined to extirpate white 
blood from the land, killed all the mulattoes who did 
not escape over the border into San Domingo — the 
independent republic on the Eastern part of the island. 
Columbus discovered this land in 1492, and pronounced 
it more beautiful than Cuba, and was loud in its praise 
to Ferdinand and Isabella. Here he established his 
first colony, which was wiped out by the natives. 
Here, too, he was thrown into prison by Bobadillo, 
and the cell may still be seen in the city of San Do- 
mingo. Till 1697 the entire island was Spanish. Then 



THE EAI8EBIN. 



45 



the Western part was ceded to France. In 1785 Tons- 
saint L'Onverture — the most famous man the island 
ever had — took possession of tlie whole, in the name 
of France. In 1806 Spain re-established herself over 
the Western portion. In 1821 San Domingo became in- 
dependent, and presently united with Hayti to form 








PUBLIC LIBRARY, FORT DE FRANCE. 

one nation. In 1844 San Domingo set up for herself, 
and since that time the two countries have divided 
the island between them. 

Napoleon attempted to reconquer Hayti, but the 
yellow fever defeated his army, as it also defeated the 
Spanish and British armies. The present condition of 
Hayti is deplorable enough. No white man is allowed 
to own a foot of land. Cannibalism is practiced, as is 



46 THE CRUISE OF 



proved by unimpeachable testimony. In one of tlieir 
periodic revolutions the Haytiens established an order 
of nobility, with fantastic titles — e. g., the "Duke of 
Lemonade." The cabbage palm was adopted as their 
emblem of liberty. The area of Hayti is 10,204 square 
miles, and that of San Domingo is 18,045. In the lat- 
ter country there are some 3,000 Germans, and the out- 
look is not rayless, as that of Hayti seems. 



CUBA. 

Cuba is so well known that there is comparatively 
little need making notes concerning it, and yet there 
is so much more material for notes that a fair share 
of space must be taken for the purpose. Cuba has 
45,000 spuare miles; as large as Massachusetts, Con- 
necticut, Rhode Island, New Hampshire, Vermont and 
half of Maine combined. Columbus decided that it was 
the continent, and required all his officers to make oath 
before a notary to that effect. The present population 
of the island is about a million and a half. Some half 
a million perished by Spanish cruelty during their re- 
cent struggle for independence. Americans largely are 
buying land in Cuba. Prof. Robert T. Hill is right in 
saying there is room for Caucasian immigration only 
in Cuba of all the West Indies, and in the near future 
there will be a tide of such immigration. The name of 
Cuba was called by the natives Cubacan, but it was 
reduced to Cube by the French and to Cuba by the 
Spanish. 



THE KAI8ERIN. 



47 



SANTIAGO DE CUBA. 



We reach the entrance to Santiago harbor early in the 
morning. There stands the Morro (i.e., fighting) Castle 




JOSEPHINE'S STATUTE, FORT DE FRANCE. 

built in 1640, and now surmounted by the United 
States flag and occupied by American soldiers. This 
made us feel that we were getting home. Though 
Cuba is now a free and independent country, Uncle 
Sam evidently does not consider the Cuban problem 



:48 THE ORULSE OF 



solved. Soldiers are therefore kept here as well as 
in Havana. The castle was built by Pedro de la Roeca. 
The opening is only some 200 feet wide between two 
hills, and a ship could sail by without any one's sus- 
pecting the existence of any harbor at all. It seems 
that a little river is finding its way to the sea, between 
Morro Castle and Zocapa Castle, which is lower and 
smaller. The channel winds a good deal, but presently 
we enter a spacious harbor, big enough to accommo- 
date a thousand ships of the line. 

The city (the natives call it St. Jago) was founded 
by Velasquez, A. D. 1515, which was 105 years before 
the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth, and 98 years before 
the settlement at Jamestown, Va. The city now has 
70,000 population, and presents a quaint and curious 
appearance. There are blue and red houses, and there 
is an air of foreign antiquit}^ everywhere. The old 
cathedral, San Carlos Club, the old church struck by 
a bombshell during the seige, the liberty monument, 
and the market are the chief objects of interest, ex- 
cept, of course, the ladies wearing their handsome man- 
tillas on their heads. Outside the city are the battle- 
fields of the recent war. On San Juan hill one can 
easily see how the American army operated. Right up 
that valley they came, over there they deployed, and 
just here they charged with such deadly effect. Here 
stands the battle monument, surmounted by a bomb- 
shell. Back yonder is the ceiba "Tree of Peace," un- 
der which the surrender took place. This tree is pro- 
tected from relic hunters by a high iron fence and rail- 
ing, with the placard, in English and Spanish, an- 
nouncing ;^100 fine and three months' imprisonment 



TEE KAISERIN. 



49 



for any one who in any way mutilates that tree. The 
battlefield is fresh enougli for the tourists to pick up 
bullets, pieces of barbed wire, &c., &c. 

Since Spain has been driven from Cuba, various 
evangelical denominations have begun mission work 
there. In Santiago, the Baptists, led by Rev. Dr. H. 
R. Mosely, have been specially successful. Methodists 




CEMETERY, FORT DE FRANCE. 

and Presbyterians are also vigorously at work, while 
the Episcopalians are well represented. These denom- 
inations give special attention to the work of educa- 
tion. The iron mines near are operated by Americans, 
and the copper mines (Cob re) 36 miles North, are said 
to be the richest in the world. 

Sailing out of the harbor, noting where the gallant 
Hobson sank the Merrimac, we pass to the right and go 



50 TEE CRUISE OF 



Westward till we come to the wreck of the Spanish 
war vessel on the shore. Here was fought the famous 
sea battle, and here was won the great victory, 
whether credit belongs to Sampson or Schley or the 
captains. It is easy to picture the battle as one reads 
the account there at the place. Here the Oregon made 
its famous iTin ; there the Brooklyn made its loop. 
Along here the flying Spanish ships ran at their utmost 
speed in their vain efforts to escape. Here was dem- 
onstrated what a London paper called *'the tremen- 
dous efficiency of the American navy." Admiral Ce- 
vera telegraphed to Madrid that he entered Santiago 
harbor ''without incident," but he went out with a 
good deal of incident. 

Turning Eastward, we go around Cape May si, and 
then Westward toward Havana. On the way the 
writer thought it would be entertaining to have a court 
with a jury of ladies to bring to trial the bachelors on 
board. Soon the jury of the gentleman was secured; 
Col. Geo. W. Vernon, of Baltimore kindly served as 
judge, Gen. W. E. Atkinson, of Little Rock was attor- 
ney for the defense. Dr. J. W. Conger, of Arkadelphia, 
Ark., served as sheriff, while the writer acted as pros- 
ecuting attorney. Mrs. Carrie C. Pittman, of Brook- 
]jn, was the foreman (?) of the jury. The court duly 
organized, the bachelors were duly sought out in their 
varied places of concealment and brought to bar. 
Witnesses were summoned and most decisive testimony 
was given. There were several "star" witnesses, 
among whom Mrs. J. M. Saxton, of Bridgeport, Conn., 
Dr. L. M. Berger, of Cleveland, and Dr. James Mor- 
row, of Philadelphia, deserve special mention. The 



TEE KAISERIN. 53 



bachelors were, of course, diih^ found ^'guilty in the 
first degree," and were each sentenced to court a lady 
within three days, or be pitched overboard. Mrs. W. 
F. Barnes, of Rockford, 111., was court reporter, and 
her report greatly interested all to whom she kindly 
read it. 

We pass along the North coast, and are in sight of 




DR. THOMPSON AND THE DONKEYS. 

the Cubistas Mountains, in the heart of which was the 
insurgent stronghold during the revolution, 1895-1898, 
and where for a time they had their seat of govern- 
ment. Farther on is the famous Yumuri valley, 
named for the river that drains it, and called "the 
Happy Valley," one of the fairest spots on the globe. 
There are many natural beauties in Cuba — the Falls 
of Rosario, for example, and, in the same province. 



54 THE CRUISE' OF 



an iiuDiense natural bridge. We go near Mautanzas, 
the second city in Cuba, with 90,000 population, but 
do not land, for we hasten to Havana. Thirty miles 
East of the city is where the ill-fated Col. Critten- 
den, of Kentucky landed in 1851 in the effort led by 
Lopez to free Cuba. He was captured and shot. 



HAYAJ^A. 



We enter the harbor with Morro Castle to our left, 
an old fortress of the Vauban period,but in good con- 
dition and still formidable. Havana was settled in 
A. D. 1519, and Hernando de Soto was the first Gov- 
ernor. The city has a fine location and one easily de- 
fended in case of war. Drake tried to take it and failed, 
as did Penn and Yenables. In 1760, however, the 
British took it and held it till the end of the Seven 
Years' War. Well within the harbor, and near where 
we anchor, lies the wreck of the TJ. S. battleship 
Maine. There is less of it above water than we would 
have supposed. The mainmast is high in air, and be- 
low and around it are tangled and rusty irons, on 
which beautiful wreaths are constantly hanging, in 
honor of the dead heroes. It was this that drove 
Spain out of Cuba. When they blew up the Maine, 
they blew up Spain, so far as the ximerican and Asiatic 
waters are concerned. Our tourists gazed long and 
fondly , commented freely, and resolved to "remember 
the Maine." 

Havana has nearly 300,000 population, mixed as to 
race, but with less race antagonism than is found on 



TEE KAISERTN. 



55 



the other West Indies. There is a large Spanish ele- 
ment, and the city, as a rule, has been loyal to Spain. 
When Napoleon overthrew the Spanish government, 
the state council met in Havana and swore allegiance 
to ''the legitimate heir" to the throne, and thus Cuba 
got the title of "ever faithful isle." There are many 
Negroes in Havana, some Hindoos, some Spanish, some 
Americans, some with Indian blood, and the largest 




EXJINS OF ST. PIERRE. 

men are descended from the immigrants from Tene- 
riffe. The Americans are coming in freely and invest- 
ing in real estate. We may be sure there is more out- 
come for Cuba than for any other of these islands. Im- 
provements are going ahead. A railroad has been com- 
pleted — 700 miles — from Havana to Santiago de Cuba. 
The objects of special interest in Havana are the 
Prado — the great boulevard — the old cathedral, where 



56 THE CRUISE OF 



they thought they had the body of Columbus, which 
wrong body the Sj)aniards removed when they left the 
island, the palace, lately fouled by Weyler and now 
graced by Palma ; the market, with its wonderful ar- 
ray, especially of fruits; the botanical gardens, the 
Teinplete Monument, where the first mass was said in 
Havana; the, Vedado Cemetery, with its magnificent 
monument to the firemen and the elegant monument 
to Gen. Garcia. There is much in the city to interest 
a visitor. The hotels are nothing extra for fare, but 
very extra for price. No doubt some enterprising 
Americans will ere long have an up-to-date hotel in 
Havana. 

Perhaps the reader will allow a word about the body 
of Columbus. When the Admiral died he was buried in 
the cathedral in Santo Domingo. His body and the 
bodies of his brother and son were also deposited there. 
When San Domingo became independent of Spain, the 
Spaniards took from the cathedral the metallic case 
which they supposed contained the body of Columbus 
and carried it to the cathedral in Havana, where it 
remained until Uncle Sam drove the Spanish out, Avhen 
it was carried to Spain. Investigation has shown that 
they made a mistake, and got the body of Diego, Co- 
lumbus' son, and not the body of the Admiral him- 
self, which still rests in the cathedral of San Domingo. 
So Spain is not only minus all America, but minus 
the body of Columbus. 

James Anthony Froude said of Havana: 'The san- 
itary condition is as bad as negligence can make it — 
so bad that a Spanish gentleman told me that if it 
were not for the natural purity of the air, they would 



THE KAISERIN. 



57 



have all been dead like flies long ago." When the 
Spanish flag was struck in Havana, the commander of 
the fort said to an American officer: "I congratulate 
your country on its victory. You have come to rule 
over the basest, most despicable people on earth.'^ 
But, thanks to the administration of Gen. (Dr.) Wood, 
the sanitary condition of the city has been revolution- 




ST. PIERRE, LOOKING NORTH. 

ized, and the future, let us hope, will contradict the 
Spanish officer's opinion of the Cubans. The experi- 
ments of Gen. Wood proved that yellow fever is pro- 
pagated by the bite of a certain mosquito, and that it 
is capable of communicating the disease only from 
twelve to fifteen days after it has bitten a yellow fever 
patient. By destroying this mosquito the disease can 
be prevented. By protecting all patients from this, 



58 THE CRUISE OF 



mosquito, the spread of the disease can be checked. 
For the first time in 100 years Havana has been free 
from yellow fever for eighteen months. 

The moral and religions conditions of Havana are 
improving. There are many American missionaries 
there representing various denominations. The writer 
visited Drs. Daniel and Diaz and the Misses Joerg, and 
would have been glad to visit others had time allowed. 
Education, too, is advancing, and Cuba gives prom- 
ise of occupying her proper jjlace in the world. Cu- 
bans have already done something in literature, as the 
names of Heredia, Ramon, Zambeau, Teresa Montez de 
Occa and Gertrudis Gomez attest. 

The most famous product of Havana is its cigar. 
The soil of Cuba grows tobacco four to nine feet tall, 
as well as many fruits and other products. There is 
hardly any limit to its agricultural possibilities. 
While no coal has been found on the island, there are 
iron, copper, asphaltum, maganese. 

Sailing from Havana Northeast, we spend another 
Sunday on the sea, and Dr. Smalley conducts the wor- 
ship, while Dr. Morrow preaches a helpful and inter- 
esting sermon on man's s^^iritual needs and how they 
are met. The weather is cooler and more comfortable 
as we go Northward. On Monday morning we are in 
the Bahamas and land at Nassau, New Providence. 
These islands are all calcarious, and entirely different 
from those we have visited. They are British. It was on 
one of these that Columbus first landed, and which 
one has long been a matter of dispute. Cat Island, 
Watling Island and Samana have each been claimed 
as the true San Salvador. The writer believes Samana 



THE KAISEBIN. 



59 



is the true place, because it is tlie ouly one of the 
three which lies East and West, as Columbus said of 
San Salvador. The natives called the island Guana 
hani, but they have all long since perished. In all 
these islands there is only one safe harbor — Nassau — 
and only one of these islands, Andros, has running 
water. 




ST. PIEKKE. LOOKING SOUTH. 



NASSAU. 



New Providence is one of the smallest of the inhab- 
ited Bahamas, but having the only safe harbor, the 
city was built here. During the American war Nassau 
flourished as the center of the blockade runners. It 
has about 10,000 population. Since Mr, Flagler built 



60 TEE CRUISE OF 



his tAvo large hotels, Nassau has become a great win- 
ter resort for tourists. The object of chief interest 
is the sea garden, over which you are towed in a glass- 
bottomed boat, whence you can look down and see the 
various sea growths (polyps, marine algse, &c.,) some 
of them gorgeously beautiful, in the clear shallow 
water. The phosporescent lake is also of curious in- 
terest. The Bahamas are not prosperous. The soil is 
not rich, though well suited to tropical fruits, which 
are not profitable because their natural market, the 
United States, is cut o& by the tariff. Sponge fishing 
is a leading industry, also rope making from the sisal 
plant, lately introduced. The whole thirty-one inhab* 
ited Bahamas have only about 50,000 population, of 
whom one-fourth live on New Providence. They be- 
lieve prosperity can come only from annexation to the 
United States. The Avriter talked with an intelligent 
British lady in Nassau, who is emphatically opposed 
to annexation, though frankly admitting that this is 
the only road to prosperity. She prefers being poor 
and British to being rich and American. She will 
have, probably, her choice. 

They have a bean on the island called "woman's 
tongue." It grows in a long pod, and when the tree 
hangs thick with these pods, ripe, the blowing of the 
wind causes a great racket. A native said this was 
''just like a crowd of women talking," and he gave this 
as the explanation of the name. It was a curious fact 
that those of the party who took most interest in these 
beans were the bachelors. Why this was true, has not 
yet been explained. 

From Nassau the good ship Kaiserin sailed to New 



THE KAhSERlN. 63 



York, arriving Feb. 5th, while more than 100 of the 
party left the ship at Nassau and sailed across to 
Miama, Florida. All carried home delightful recol- 
lections of the cruise, and it is hoped all will have 
those recollections refreshed pleasantly by reading 
this souvenir volume. It is hoped also that other read- 
ers will here find matter of pleasant interest. All 




FRONT OF CATHEDRAL, ST. PIERRE. 

these islands should receive more attention than has 
heretofore been given them from Americans. 



64 THE CRUISE OP 



The Cruise of the Ketiserin, 

JANUARY 15— FEBRUARY 5, 1903. 
MARTIN LUTHER BERGER, D. D, 

It seemed a cruel decree of Fate, 
That "The Kaiserin" came in two days late, 
She found New York in a terrible vice, 
Hard locked by frost and glittering ice. 

Her bunkers with coal, she had to supply, 
And things on that line, were verj'^ awry, 
She needed cleaning, and thorough repair, 
To make her real bonny, and debonair. 

So '^powers that be," announced delay, 
And ''Sailing was postponed for a day," 
Any who chose, were invited to stay, 
But the larger number shiver'd away. 

Those who cared to remain, began to bind. 
With affectionate links, congenial mind. 
The day and the evening, they quickly passed, 
And hour for returning, arrived at last. 

Before retiring, we took one more view. 
To find in someway, t}iat lost portmanteau. 
The stewards had made three searches in vain, 
And Doctor Smalley, was truly in pain. 



THE EAISERIN. 



65 



"Home in the morning, unless it is found" 
Was the spur that sent us hunting around, 
We could not bear, to lose such a good friend. 
And have our acquaintance suddenly end. 

It saf eh'' stood, in seven thirty-three. 
We hastened our find, to report with glee, 
And sent the good Doctor, happy to bed, 
With his blessing upon our lucky head. 



- 


R" ■ ' ^'^'^^S 


1 


^^^^^H 






H^l 


H^^^^-^l-'^SH 


■^J 


^I^^^^^H^^BSi^Hi 


gH^ y*' ' 1 ^^H 


^^^^^^Bi^^^l 


^^^^^^^^^ETiS^nz 




HHHM 


H^K..^ 







BEAR OF CATHEDRAL, ST. PIERRE. 



The cabins were cold, but the beds were warm, 
And the chilly air did none of us harm, 
And we peacefully slept till break of day, 
Thankful, indeed, we concluded to stay. 

The crisp morning came, with heartier cheer. 
The passengers gather'd from far and near. 



66 THE CBUISE OF 



Witli bags and bundles and dressing cases, 
And bright, intelligent, honest faces. 

The gentlemen largely in evidence, 
Which may be regarded as proof of sense, 
Or a readier willingness to dare 
The dreaded ordeal of mal-de-mer. 

Towns and cities of medinm size. 
Afforded the bulk of those on the cruise. 
The number from very large towns, w^as small, 
And New York had hardly any at all. 

On Thursday noon, Ave cast off from the dock, 
Backed into North River, without a shock, 
Mid waving huzzahs, and hasty good-byes, 
And moisture gathering in many ejes. 

We quietly swept, out of Sandy Hook, 
Casting many a fond and lingering look. 
Towards dear ones, w^e had to leave behind, 
Though forever present, to us in mind. 

We directed our course, a due southeast. 
Glad to be off, for ''The Isles of the Blest," 
Expecting rare scenes, with tropical growth. 
Far away from old winter's killing breath. 

Our part}'^ numbered, two sixty-six. 

And they found it an easy task to fix. 

In the length, and breadth, and generous fold, 

Of Maria Theresia's spacious hold. 

The table Avas fine, the food extra good, 
And the busy stewards in willing mood, 



THE KAISERIW. 



67 



And peaceful seas caused many to rave, 
O'er the joys of, '"Life on the ocean wave." 

A few looked wan, and dreary, and sad, 
As if life lack'd something, to make it glad, 
But the sea grew less roil'd, and stomachs, too, 
And then their faces, were fair to the view. 




RUINS OF BANK OP MAKTINIQUE. 

Mr. Clark was thoughtful, attentive and true. 
Striving all possible kindness to shew, 
Eegarding our wishes, both great and small. 
And promptly responding to every call. 

Each day the blue of the sea, was more blue. 
And tropical skies took a daintier hue, 
And blush of the cloud, at smile of the sea. 
Was a panacea, from care to free. 



68 THE CRUISE OF 



Our party was large, and of ev'ry kind, 
Of respectable folk, you will anywhere find, 
We had callow youth, we had blooming buds, 
And a few, who wore splendid flashing studs. 

We had business men, of their wives so proud, 
Who enjojed the fine trip, dressed a la mode, 
We had married people, more than six score. 
And a few whose hearts seem'd a little sore. 

We had jewelled ladies, richly drest. 

And dandies, vain of their mustache and vest. 

We had bachelors, shunning wily snare, 

And maids, who sternly refused to pair. 

I 

We had mannish women, and womanish men. 

And some whose traits, no one could ken. 

But we made, as a whole, a splendid crowd, 

Neither coarse, nor vulgar, nor vain, nor loud. 

Our score of physicians, was very full. 
Representing every kind of school, 
Allopath, homeopath, osteopath, all, 
Who live and thrive, through man's sad fall. 

Of lawyers, we had booked a few, 
Who longed "The Enchanted Isles," to view. 
Who left their courts, and troublesome cases. 
To visit, more interesting places. 

Of preachers, we held, a very fine band, 
From ev'ry part, of our favored land. 
They were tall, and short, and sturdy, and old. 
And represented, each Christian fold. 



THE KAISERIN. 



69 



They ran together, like drops of water, 
And made our broad decks, resound with laughter, 
They scattered kind smiles, and bright ideas, 
And with witty stories, tried to please. 




STONE CAUGHT ON PIKE, ST. PIEEEE. 



They left in sheathe, the polemical sword. 
And lovingly talked, of God's good Word, 
As they, round the dear Elder Brother drew, 
Who was filling their hearts, with joy so new. 



70 THE CRUISE OF 



A growing spirit, of sweet brotherhood, 
Melted all on board, into gentle mood, 
And it was so plain every eye could see, 
We had fused, into one great family. 

On Sundaj^, we sat in reverent mood. 
And behind the awning, we Avorshipped God, 
Dr. Eaton, of Louisville, spoke that day. 
Explaining "Faith," in a masterly way. 

The hours passed by, in friendly chit-chat, 
Discussing freely, this theme and that. 
Our faces fanned by the friendly breeze, 
As we glided smoothly, o'er summer seas. 

Journeying Southward, we do not complain. 
Of the cold, that bound the North, with its chain. 
Our steaming cabins, were sinipl}^ a fright; 
We tossed and sweat, thro' the livelong night. 

Our tossing and tumbling, no relief found, 
Till we sought the deck, and the cooling wind. 
And here, a tropical sunrise, repaid, 
The effort to rise, reluctantly made. 

On the left St. Thomas, we plainly see, 

A wavy line of volcanic debris. 

The mountains spring up, from the ocean bed, 

And lift high in air, an umbrageous head. 

We slowly steam into, the harbor fine. 
And set foot on shore, at the hour of nine. 
The town of Charlotte Amelia lay. 
In a beautiful crescent, round the Bay. 



THE KAISERIN. 



73 



The people met us, in holiday gear, 
All gathered in crowds, around the pier, 
Men, women and children, attir'd in white, 
Black faces, shining with jovial light. 

We wandered thro', the clean little town, 

Which laugh'd with delight, as the cash came down,. 




CARIB INDIANS, ST. VINCENT. 

We got, beads and baskets, and this and that, 
And some bo't Avhite clothes, and Panama hat> 

At twelve we lunched, on veranda wide, 

The loveliest views on every side. 

The verdure crowned hills, and gleaming bay 

Where the three white steamers, at anchor lay. 

We call'd on our Consul, in Home so neat, 
And "The Bulletin's" editor chanced to meet. 



74 THE CRUISE OF 



Who told US that most of the people here, 

Were hankering, ^'The Stars and Stripes," to wear. 

At five we quietly, wended our way, 

On board, having spent a most happy day, 

Its memory to add, to growing store, 

When these lovely scenes, delight us no more. 

We steamed in the night to fair St. Kitt, 

Where some say the new world did Columbus greet, 

A sweet little town, nestling round the bay. 

With cane fields and mountains circling each way. 

Clouds crowned the mountains, with dainty grace, 
And we all were agreed 'twas "a charming place," 
And a little cloud, o'er our ship was cast. 
While the yellow flag, flew at our fore-most. 

But it soon came down, to our great relief. 
When the doctor declared, ''No cause for grief," 
Our ship's "Bill of Health" was quite clean enough, 
Although his manner, was a little gruff. 

We flocked to the shore, all in a trice, 
And soon discovered that things were nice, 
W"e first drove all over the little place. 
And away for butterflies set our face. 

We drive through rustling fields, of sugar cane, 
That the bushey ravine, we might attain. 
The ascent was easy, and soon our eyes. 
Dilated with Avonder, and glad surprise. 

We found fine specimens, easy to get, 
And soon had twenty-five, safe in the net, 



THE KAI8ERIN. 



75 



Some dusky nymphs, washing, down in the glen. 
Warbled out merry shoutings now and then. 

We gathered for lunch, at ''The Park Hotel," 
And "getting the pineapple" far'd real well, 
The sugar plantations, claimed an hour. 
And then we drove, right to the consul's door. 




BREAD FRUIT TREE, ST. VINCENT. 



AYe here found tu-o Havens, each kind and sweet, 
And a clean, and restful, and cool retreat, 
And the consul's wife, so gracious and bland, 
A bit of U. S. in a foreign land. 

At hour of four, they tendered in state, 
A Reception, at British consulate. 
Ample refreshment, was freely served. 
An honor we felt was undeserved. 



76 THE CRUISE OF 



We invited them all, to come on board, 
And divide with iis, our generous hoard, 
They gladly gave heed, to our gentle beck. 
And till midnight danced, on our ample deck. 

We started at 2 A. M. for St. John, 

And anchored two miles and a half, from town. 

But a heavy grief here, fell on my heart. 

The muse gives a shudder, the tear drops start. 

For a time I was, the most wretched man, 
Enroll'd in the ranks, of our Frank Clark clan, 
But lest I offend, supersensitive ears, 
I bury deep down, the cause of my fears. 

Imagine my joy, at St. John to find, 
A gentleman able, to soothe my mind, 
And in dexterous way, my want to fill, 
I can never forget, clear Doctor Hill. 

A native West Indian, cultured and kind. 
With dainty touch, and a well-trained mind, 
So polished in manners, and good of heart, 
I really hated, from him to part. 

We searched Botanical Gardens through. 
And captured butterfles, only a few, 
Returned to lunch, at '^Central Hotel," 
And did not think, we were treated right well. 

The meal was served us, tvrong end to, 
And the landlord, hardly knew what to do, 
Oranges disappeared, in a trice, 
While sixty folks watched for something nice. 



THE KAI8ERIN. 



77 



We chatted till water began to fail, 

Then some took whiskey, and some ginger ale, 

At length "the poule," began to appear, 

But, three fowls and one ham, made scanty fare. 

What we lacked in food, we made up in fun, 
And went to the wharf, almost on a run. 




WOMEN HOD CARRIERS. 



We failed, on the steam yacht to get afloat, 
And jumped right into, a big sail boat. 

The wind whirPd us fast, along steam yacht's track. 
Till at length we let her, look on our back. 
And reached our ship first, in bounding glee. 
Giving silver tip, to our dusky three. 



78 THE CRUISE OF 



Doctor Fletcher lectnr'd again, that night, 
And Mr. Eue gave Recitation bright, 
And the wind blew freshly, sweetly and strong, 
As our noble vessel hurried along. 

The morning light found us, at Fort-de-France, 
And its deadly serpent ''The Fer-de-lance," 
We found a rich purse of gold, on a seat. 
From which a sleeper, had beaten retreat. 

We gladly gave it, to owner when found. 
And case was clear, for we felt ourselves bound, 
By the law, "what you, would have men to do, 
Do to them/' and so keep your own soul true. 

We land at eleven, all in a bunch, 
And hurried at once, to get thro' our lunch, 
It stayed our hunger and off we hied, 
In a roomy carriage, for a ride. 

The town, was remarkably clean and sweet, 
And clear water coursed, each side the street, 
We hunted the market, and haunted the store, 
And murdered the language, a galore. 

We looked on statue of Josephine 
And pitied, the poor unfortunate Queen, 
And thought how faithfully, she had loved, 
A man, who had so unworthy proved. 

Contrasted with baseness, how constant the love, 
These simple Islanders, faithfully give, 
Enshrin'ed in their hearts, she still wears a croivn^ 
Which no traitor hand, can rudely cast down. 



THE KAI8ERIN. 



For a brief half hour, we follow the coast, 
When the most awful scenes, upon us burst, 
The ghastly ruins, of lovely St. Pierre, 
And the buried thousands, that slumber there, 

A sadder sight, the eye never will see. 
Than that which sickens you, under Pelee, 




traveler's palm, ST. VINCEJ^T. 



Here full forty thousand, died in a breath. 
And densely crow^ded, the gates of death. 

It was ten of eight on the eighth of May, 
When the threatening cloud on Pelee lay, 
And burst with a crash, heard around the world. 
As its fierv ash on St. Pierre was hurled. 



«0 THE CRUISE OF 



The lovely city was blotted from earth, 
And became a grim charnel-house of death, 
And where music and dance and song were found, 
Onl}^ ruin and silence now abound. 

We landed upon the desolate shore. 

And gathered relics, many a score, 

Fishhooks and spoons, scissors, plates and old keys, 

As each one's fancy seemed most to please. 

Some had smoked pitchers, and some had tile, 
Some boasted as treasure a rusty file. 
And one who is fond of the ladies fair, 
Rejoiced in a thing to curl the hair. 

One doctor gloried, in teeth and a skull. 
Another of vertebra, got the whole, 
But the funniest thing, I saw of all. 
Was a woman lugging, a cannon-ball. 

We came on board, like an army from war. 
And each one, his cherished trophy bore. 
And slipping the cable, that held our ship. 
From dangerous place, were glad to escape. 

Our souls impressed, with a sense profound, 
Of the mighty forces, under the ground. 
Felt how puny is man, his works how vain. 
Where Nature would spread, a desolate plain. 

Next morn we lay in another sweet bay. 
With mighty Soufriere, not far away. 
The sharp peaks were wooded, to lofty top, 
And stood in a crescent, around the ship. 



THE KAISERIN. 



83 



The fronded palms, adorned tlie green shore, 
Mango, banana and others a score, 
And rainbows, the birth of sun and shower. 
Thrilled all our hearts, with magic power. 

We fellow-travelers, row to the land, 

In safe rowboats, pulled by a strong hand, 




COFFEE TEEE, ST. VINCENT. 



And wander quite aimlessly, up and down, 

Through the stone-paved streets, of fair "Kingstown." 

Botanical Gardens, delight our eyes. 
The oldest found, under tropical skies. 
The gorgeous foliage, red, yellow, green, 
Was richest display we ever have seen. 



84 THE CRUISE OF 



The rarest plants, were here crowding the ground, 
Brought from tropical zone, the whole world round, 
And tended with skill, and exquisite care. 
Afforded pleasure, not met with elsewhere. 

A village of Caribs camp'd on the ridge, 
Driven on westward by Soufriere's rage, 
A fading remnant of powerful race. 
Which time will soon from the earth efface. 

Caribs call, the Rainbow, ^'The Plume of God," 
And the name is fine, as we see one nod, 
On brow of St. Andrew, above the bay. 
As Theresa resumed, her watery way. 

And now we turn, towards the western skies, 
''The Lesser Antilles," fade from our eyes, 
Near a thousand miles, to "The Greater" stretch, 
■Our good ship will bring them, within our reach. 

•On the second Sabbath, Mr. Clark chose. 

The man who composed, this "Rhyme of the cruise," 

To preach on the deck ; he dreaded it much. 

But he chose as his theme, "The Human Touch." 

An original poem completed discourse, 
AVhich by special request, is in this verse. 
We freely insert it, hoping to give, 
A higher ideal, by which to live. 

Did you ever think, of "The Human Touch," 
And what springs out of it, little or much, 
Filling the future, with pleasure or pain. 
An aggregate vast, of loss of gain. 



THE EAISERIN. 



85 



There's a touch of the hand, that gives a chill, 
Another that stirs, with electric thrill, 
From the one you find yourself, limp and weak. 
From the other brave, all duty to seek. 

There's a touch of the lips, a heartfelt kiss. 
That affords us always, a taste of bliss. 




OKGAN CACTI. 



Where it's stamp'd with purity, truth, and love, 
And holy confidence, born from above. 

"'Twas my mother's kiss," said Benjamin West, 
Made me a painter, inspired my breast. 
The world shall never, be able to count. 
Inspirations of genius, from this fount. 



86 TEE CRUISE OF 



The human touch, of contempt on the face, 

Has driven many a man to disgrace, 

When a gentle word, instead of a frown, 

Would have help'd him, trample temptation down. 

A human touch, of a word on the ear. 
Has kindled within us, sweet hope or fear, 
Illuming our souls, with visions of bliss. 
Or blanching our faces, like sorrow's kiss. 

There's a touch that comes from a brave, true, soul. 
Imparting fresh vigor, making us whole, 
Lifting above the low, base, selfish thought. 
Making us ponder, the mighty word ''ought." 

We cannot help "touching" where'er we go, 
Sending out currents, of joy or of woe, 
Scatt'ring a blessing or earning a curse, 
Changing those round us, for better or worse. 

Kindling a smile, or awaking a frown. 
By our heart touch pushing, souls up or down, 
Not a croaking crow, but a singing linnet, 
Making earth gladder, because we are in it. 

Helping to scale, the imperial height, 
Or leading down into, the shades of night, 
Giving fresh pinion, to angel wing. 
Or causing to grovel, a damaged thing. 

It is serious work, this living of ours, 
Demanding best use of our noblest pow'rs. 
For we soiv in our "touching" and must reap 
What will fill us with joy, or make us iveep. 



TEE EAISERTN 



87 



Thus we thought and pray'd far out on the sea, 
And worshipped our God afar from Pelee, 
Who raged in fury and blew off her head, 
While we far away, in our safety sped. 

The Merciful hand, of our merciful God, 
In chosen pathway, our footsteps had led. 




TRAIN FOE SPANISHTOWN. 



While a St. Vincent vessel, approach'ng that strand 
Was not even permitt'd to touch the land. 

On Tuesdaj' morning we slowly swing round. 
Famous Port Royal, on historic ground. 
And steam into Kingston's capacious bay, 
Run close to the pier, and at anchor lay. 



THE CRUISE OF 



We mount tlie train, and rattle away down 
To that stupid old place, call'd "Spanishtown," 
We felt very glad it was not very far, 
As we never enjoy, a third class car. 

We returned to lunch, at /'The Myrtle Bank," 
And again had our friend, Frank Clark to thank, 
For a long jolly ride, by trolley line, 
To "Hotel Constant Spring," which is very fine. 

At night Captain Wettin, officer as good, 
As any man sailing, on Ocean flood, 
Honor'd Kaiser's Birthday, by a great Feast, 
Two hours long, champagne, and the best. 

Next morning the sea, had a kindly smile. 
And we rounded Jamaica's, lovely isle, 
To a fruit place called Port Antonio, 
Where bananas are sent up North you know. 

We found this place, the most winning and fair, 
That we had encountered anywhere. 
Such tropical foliage, meeting our eyes, 
As filled us with new and glad surprise, 

A half hour's ride, from the lovely Hotel, 
Bore us up to the crest, of the leafy hill. 
And we saw such jungle and tropical sight, 
As filled our hearts with nameless delight. 

The negroes, too, both the great and the small, 
Gave welcome surprise, by not begging at all, 
The American Company, gave them work. 
And thev shew'd no sign of, desire to shirk. 



THE KAI SERIN. 



After hot, restless night, we sought the breeze. 
And far in the South, saw a thing to please. 
We could not mistake, The Southern cross true, 
And we now share the Muse's flight with you. 

Blaz'd on the Southern sky, 

Mid burning world on high. 

The beacon stands; 




CAPITOL, SPANISHTOWN, RODNEY'S MONUMENT. 

Proclaiming love Divine, 
O'er ev'ry realm to shine, 
O'er outstretch'd lands. 

The awful signal there, 
Poised in the upper air, 
Tells its glad tale; 



90 THE CBUISE OF 



Of Him who chose to die, 
Our souls to lift on high, 
From death's dark vale. 

He did not grudge the cost, 
Kegarding but the lost, 

And stretch'd Him there; 
Sin's penalty to pay, 
Sin's curse to bear away, 

To make us fair. 

Triumphant Son of God! 
We would the lesson read. 

Afresh this hour; 
Make evil die within, 
Kenew and keep us clean, 

Keveal Thy power. 

At dawn we reach'd mouth of that famous bay, 
Where Sampson's great fleet, when blockading lay, 
Where Cervera's fleet, was driven ashore, 
To threaten our coastwise cities no more. 

We recalled with delight, that glad bright hour 
When cruel Spain felt Columbia's power. 
And when noble Philip, tenderly plead. 
For the dying foe, who helplessly bled. 

'Neath "The Stars and Stripes," grim Morro smiled, 
And with Yankee hurrahs, our way beguiled. 
As majestic Theresa, pick'd her way, 
By crooked path to Santiago Bay. 



02 




THE KAISERIN. 



93 



Of course we visited the battle field, 
Where the Spanish army, was forc'd to yield. 
And we lingered beneath ''The Tree of Peace," 
Whence the orders issued, that strife should cease. 




CEIBA (SILK cotton) TEEE, JAMAICA. 

We thought of "our Teddy," and heroes grand, 
Who brought such relief, to this tortured land. 
And we gave for our soldiers, a lusty shout. 
Who the cruel Spaniard, had driven out. 



94 THE CRUISE OF 



We stood on the Block-House, on San Juan Hill, 
And again the valleys, with Blue Coats fill. 
And the cannon roar, and the rifles flash, 
As the gallant Boys make their famous dash. 

The scene changes now, the whole thing is o'er, 
The foe has vanished, to fight us no more. 
And the lonely grave, on the steep hillside. 
Is the only thing, that will always abide. 

And yet these brave deeds, can ne'er be forgot. 
Others will visit, this wild wind swept spot. 
And drink the spirit, that led men to die. 
That Liberty's banner, might float on high. 

Kound 'Tearl of Antilles" we take our way. 
Glancing at wrecks, when well out of the Bay, 
And a cooler night afforded some rest. 
As "The Windward Passage" we bravely breast. 

Next day to have, some quite innocent fun, 
"A bachelor's trial," was gravely begun. 
Judge Vernon, as many as eight arraign'd. 
And a jury of ladies was quickly obtain'd. 

Dr. Eaton strongly push'd "indictment," 
Gen'l Atkinson defend'd 'mid excitement, 
Witnesses swore to most damaging facts, 
The culprits trembled, in view of their acts. 

That ladies had given them, ev'ry chance. 
Was plainly apparent, at single glance. 
One gigantic brother, quite in despair. 
Had whollv neglected "The Ladies Fair." 



TEE KAI8ERIN. 



95 



The whole trouble rose, 'twas plain as your nose, 
The slippery rogues, would not propose, 
And sweet smiles, and sighs, and tender caress, 
Were wasted — by those whom their liA^es would bless. 

The jury brought them in, "Guilty," of course. 
Recommending mercy, rather than force. 




BANYAN TREE, JAMAICA. 

And the judge allow'd them "Three days of grace," 
Or "Overboard go, at a headlong pace." 

We reached Havana, at hour of noon, 
And as many thought, not anj too soon. 
To take in the sights, and hie away. 
At nine in the morning, of the next day. 



^6 TEE CRUISE OF 



Morro Castle floated Cuban Flag fair, 
With ''The Stars and Stripes," high up in the air. 
And we dropped anchor, near wreck of the Maine, 
Which clear'd America, of dastardly Spain. 

We had a fine drive, by the battlement, 
Saw the elegant, "Firemens Monument," 
University, work of Gen. Wood, 
Were cheered by students, in hearty mood. 

We saw the fine plant, of the M. E. South, 
A manifest work, of very great worth. 
The Baptist Bible Depository, too, 
Scattering God's word, the whole island thro'. 

Havana was wonderful sweet, and clean, 
With business enterprise, ev'ry where seen, 
And the substantial work, of Brooks and Wood, 
Was greatly admir'd, as thoroughly good. 

And now we gather, to worship on deck. 

As Cuba fades into, a tiny speck. 

Good Doctor Morrow, proved out of the Word, 

That man's higher life, must come from his God. 

This service too, with its hymns and prayer, 
Warmed all our hearts, in devotion rare. 
We will not forget, those services three, 
When one church, we sought God, far out at sea. 

They gave us all, a foretaste of Heaven, 
Where they only adore, for sins forgiv'n. 
IS^o sect, no division, no wicked pride, 
All supremely glad, at the Saviour's side. 



THE KAISERIN. 



97 



As we speeded North, under cooler skies, 
A thing occurred, which occasion'd surprise; 
A flying fish joined, the party in sport. 
By leaping right into, an open port. 

He flapped his delight, on the cabin floor, 
Then wearily halted, to flap no more. 




DRYING COFFEE, JAMAICA. 



Poor Fellow! he failed, the precept to keep. 
Just ''Be sure that look^ before you leap." 

It is dangerous work, stealing a ride, 
You may get punish'd and killed beside. 
This fish adventurous, soared too high. 
Lost life, and was served, for a breakfast fry. 



98 



THE CRUISE OF 



With the morn, the Bahamas on us smile, 
And New Providence woos us, lovely isle! 
We slowly halt, before Nassau, and feel, 
For water sufficient to float our keel. 

The Tender carries us, safe to the shore. 
And some sixty land, to come back no more. 




THATCHED ROOF, HOPE GARDENS. 



They shrink to plunge, into winter again, 
Till the snow and sleet, are warm summer rain. 

''The Colonial" grand, with spacious hall, 
Spreads a splendid luncheon, at once for all, 
We saw nothing anywhere, half so fine, 
And it certainlv made our faces shine. 



TEE EAh^ERIN. 



99 



The ver}^ best cuisine, found anywhere, 
And a gentle politenesS;, exceedingly rare, 
And flowers and gardens and palms galore, 
Stretch'd closely along a ravishing shore. 

All round so dainty, and spacious, and nice, 
We seem'd to have landed in Paradise, 




THE KAISERIN, POET ANTO^MIO. 



And we strolled cool halls, and loung'd at fease, 
And delighted our eyes, with the bluest of seas. 



At seven the Kaiserin, took her way 
At a rattling pace, for New York Bay, 
We had used three boilers, so far through. 
But the fourth was now fir'd to drive the screw. 

L.ofG. 



100 



THE CRUISE OF 



The captain pushed her with might and main. 
For she had to go out, so soon again, 
To bear a Clark Party, four hundred or more. 
To linger on Mediterranean shore. 




JOSE MAETI MONUMENT, SAN JUAN HILL. 



She reached her wharf, exactly on time, ' 
And in winter garments, all hurried home, 
And ''The Cruise," became a memory fair, 
With some of its record, in amber here. 






J( 



TEE KAI8ERIN. 



103 



We wrote this rhyme, a small circle to please, 
Each day it grew bigger, with perfect ease, 
It was never meant for critical eyes, 
Nor for those, who a merry verse despise. 

But for friendly hearts, ashore or ol ship. 
Who find it a pleasant potion to sip, 




TREE OF PEACE, SANTIAGO. 



As it briefly calls np, the things now past. 
Whose only fanlt being, "too bright to last." 

We hardly expect, to all meet below. 
But some friendships won, a permanent glow. 
We saw eye to eye, and soul touched soul, 
Such love is not bounded, bv ocean's roll. 



104 



THE CRUISE OF 



So safely arrived, at home at last, 
We joyfully offer ^'Our Parting Toast," 
''Here's to bonny Marie, spacious and free, 
Bringing us safely, West Indies to see. 

''Here's to Captain Wettin, best of his kind, 
With a sunny smile, and sagacious mind, 




J* .Hi."^^* C-S^i'^r ^'l.^"^" - 




MORRO CASTLE, FROM PT. CORRALL. 

Here's to our Frank Clark, and his helpful three. 
More faithful fellows, you never will see. 



"Here's to steady Old Tradewind, noble breeze ! 
That cooled and track'd us, o'er tropic seas. 
Here's to "Our Ladies," gentle and fair. 
Resourceful, and soulful, and debonair. 



THE KAI SERIN. 



105- 



And here's to us all, a jolly good crowd, 
May we strike one like it, when next aboard. 
And here's Gentle Reader! to you and me. 
When Frank Clark invites us, to Norway Sea. 

The Land of fiords, mountains, glaciers bold, 
Where you see the ice, but suffer no cold, 






MOREO CASTLE, FEOM PT. CORROLL. 

With summer snow solid beneath your feet, 
You have no hot cabin or prickly heat. 

There may we cement a dear friendship whole, 
That glories in stretching from Tropic to Pole, 
Defying Time's tooth, and from crumbling free, 
And enduring through all Eternity. 



106 TEE CRUISE OF 

On January 15, 1903, at 11 A. M., we were all on 
board the good ship Kaiserin Maria Theresia, of the 
North German Lloyd line, and starting for a tour of 
the West Indies, under the personal conduct of Mr. 
Frank C. Clark, of New York. There were 266 of us. 

LIST OF OFFICERS OF THE SHIP. 



Captain — P. Wettin. 
First Officer — C. Hagemeyer. 
Second Officer — H. Hashagen. 
Second Officer — E. Tonne. 
Third Officer — O. Scheidling. 
Fourth Officer — F. Schenk. 
Physician — Dr. G. Ludeke. 
Chief Steward — F. Hillebrand. 

LIST OF PASSENGERS. 



Abbe, A. N., New Britain, Conn. 
Abbe, Mrs., New Britain, Conn. 
Adams, H. L., Chicago, 111. 
Adkins, Mrs. Wm. G., Chicago, 111. 
Asman, William, Marysville, Ohio. 
Atkinson, Gen. W. E., Little Rock, Ark. 

Baker, Mrs. Henry B., New York, N. Y. 
Baldwin, Dwight M., Red Wing Minn. 



■■*J 



.^^^ - "" 



-•-*"-'"■''••- ■'^ 



MOKEO CASTLE, HAVANA. 



THE KAI8ERIN. 



109 



Baldwin, Mrs., Red Wing, Minn, 
Bamford, Joseph, Jr., Patterson, N. J. 
Bamford, Mrs., Patterson, N. J. 
Bamford, Miss Victoria., Patterson, N. 
Barbour, Miss Ruby L., Rockford, III. 
Bard, Miss Beryl, Los Angeles, Cal. 
Barnes, Mrs. W. F., Rockford, 111. 




2XrLXTETA AVENUE, HAVANA. 

Barrett, Thomas, Salamanca, N. Y, 
Barry, Napoleon B., Hoboken, N. J. 
Bartels, Dr. H. W. F., Wooddale, 111. 
Bartels, Mrs., Wooddale, 111. 
Barthmaier, H., Philadelphia, Pa. 
Barton, N. B., Providence, R. I. 
Bayly, Charles, Denver, Col. 
Bayly, Mrs., Denver, Col. 



110 



TEE CRUISE OF 



Bellows, Edwin, Chicago, 111. 

Berger, Rev. Martin Luther, D. D., Cleveland, O. 

Boynton, Mrs. C. D., Cape Girardeau, Mo. 

Boynton, Mrs. C. O., Sycamore, 111. 

Bradley, William, New York, N. Y. 

Bradley, Mrs., New York, N. Y. 

Brower, Dr. D. R., Chicago, 111. 




COUET OF president's PALACE, HAVANA. 

Brower, Mrs., Chicago, 111. 
Brockman, Mrs. E. W., Killingly, Conn. 
Brown, B. F., Lexington, Mass. 
Brown, Mrs., Lexington, Mass. 
Bruner, L. J., Philadelphia, Pa. 
Buckhout, Frank A,, Providence, R. I. 
Buckhout, Miss Ruby, Providence, R. I. 
Butler, Mrs. Ada G., Ripley, Tenn. 



THE EAISEBIN. 



Ill 



Butler, Obadiah, New Bedford, Mass. 

Campbell, F. A., New York. 

Campbell, Mrs. F. A., Worchester, England. 

Carter, Abraham, Chester, Pa. 

Carter, C. S., Port Colborne, Ontario. 

Carter, Mrs., Port Colborne, Ontario. 




INDIAN MONUMENT, HAVANA. 

Cbalifaux, J. L., Lowell, Mass. 

Clark, Frank C, 111 Broadway, New York. 

Clarke, George S., Milton, N. Y. 

Clarke, Mrs., Milton, N. Y. 

Clorite, M. A., Fall River, Mass. 

Clorite, Mrs., Fall River, Mass. 

Coates, A. B., Cliftondale, Mass. 

Cochrane, L. E., Youngstown, O. 



112 THE CRUISE OF 



Cochrane, Mrs., Youngstown, O. 
Commerford, A. B., Newport, R. I. 
Compton, Rev. T. N., D. D., Madisonville, Ky. 
Conger, Pres. J. W., D.D., Arkadelphia, Ark. 
Cornish, W. T., Atlanta, N. Y. 
Cosgrove, Rev. P., Smithport, Pa. 
Cowdrey, DeWitt C, Passaic, N. J. 
Crosby, Miss Nellie L., Auburn, Me. 

Davis, Z. B., New Bedford, Mass. 
Deems, E. A., Washington, Pa. 
Deems, E. R., Washington, Pa. 
Doncette, E. L., Newport, R. I. 
Doncette, Mrs., Newport, R. I. 
Dunn, Mrs. J. W., Chicago, 111. 
Dunn, Miss Isabella, Chicago, 111. 

Eaton, Rev. T. T., D.D. LL.D., Louisville, Ky. 
Elliott, J. M., Los Angeles, Cal. 
Elliott, Miss Mary Belle, Los Angeles, Cal. 
Elliott, Master Robert P., Los Angeles, Cal. 
Evans, Ellwood, Haddonfield, N. J. 

Faber, Dr. P. J., Chicago, 111. 
Fallert, Bert, Brooklyn, N. Y. 
Fitzsimmons, Mrs. Charles, Chicago, 111. 
Floos, Miss. 

Galland, Julius, Spokane, Washington. 
Gardner, Mrs. Virginia M., Martin, Tenn. 
Gardner, John M., Martin, Tenn. 
Gardner, S. P. Haverhill, Mass. 
Geer, William C, Troy, N. Y. 



THE KAISERIN. 



113 



Gibbs, John T., Norfolk, Ya. 
Giflford, Miss Helen, New Bedford, Mass. 
Goodwin, Henry, Boston, Mass. 
Goodwin, Mrs., Boston, Mass. 
Greene, Edward M., Lewistown, Pa. 
Gross, Alfred H., Evanston, 111. 
Gross, E. Tudor, Providence, R. I. 




LA PUNTA, HAVANA. 

Gross, George L., Providence, R. I. 
Guilford, H. B., Rochester, N. Y. 
Gutwillig, Alfred, New York, N. Y. 

Haire, John T., Newport, R. I. 
Haire, Joseph, Newport, R. I. 
Hamel, John J., Glean, N. Y. 
Hanlen, F. G., Harrisburg, Pa. 



114 THE CRUISE OF 



Hardy, Miss Lilian L., Newport, R. I. 
Harrington, John H., Lowell, Mass. 
Harvey, Paul M., Portsmouth, N. H, 
Haskell, Wilmot S., Jamaica Plains, N. Y. 
Haskell, Mrs., Jamaica Plains, N. Y. 
Heath, B. C, Newton ville, Mass. 
Heuge, Miss Mary L., Worcester, Mass. 
Herring, Miss Emma, New York, N. Y. 
Herz, Nate C, Bridgeport, Conn. 
Hewitt, Henry C, Portsmouth, N. H. 
Hilbrick, Mr., New London, Conn. 
Hirtle, Miss May E., New York, N. Y. 
Hitch, Mayhew R., New Bedford, Mass. 
Hitch, Mrs., New Bedford, Mass. 
Holland, Philip, Lawrence, Mass. 
Hopkins, L. C, Atlanta, Ga. 
Hopkins, Mrs., Atlanta, Ga. 
Hubbard, Frederick A., Greenwich, Conn. 
Hudson, Chester E., Lawrence, Mass. 
Hughes, E. A., Fargo, N. Dakota. 
Hughes, Mrs., Fargo, N. Dakota. 
Hunter, Forrest, Harrisburg, Pa. 
Hurst, Miss E. W. 
Hyde, Frank S., Johnstown, Pa. 

Jordan, Victor K., Hanover, Pa. 
Jordan, Mrs., Hanover, Pa. 
Jordan, W. F., Bangor, Pa. 
Jordan, Mrs., Bangor, Pa. 

Kaufman, Edward, New York, N. Y. 
Kelley, Charles S., Jr., New Bedford, Mass. 
Kelley, Mrs., New Bedford, Mass. 



TEE KATSERIN. 



117 



Kent, H. W., New York, N. Y. 
Keppel, Frederick, New York, N, Y. 
Keppel, Mrs., New York, N. Y. 
Kerr, Dr. C. V., Cleveland, O. 
Kinnard, H.. Newark, N. J. 
Knowlton, Mrs. J. L., Worcester, Mass. 




VOLANTE, HAVANA. 

Lampton, W. J.. New York, N. Y. 
Lawrence, Daniel W., Medford, Mass. 
Lawrence, George W., Medford, Mass. 
Larimer, Charles, Irwin, Pa. 
Linzinmeire, Lonis, Marysville, O. 
Long, H. H., Hamilton, O. 
Long, Mrs., Hamilton, O. 
Lynch, A. H., Morristown, N. J. 



118 THE CRUISE OF 



McAuley, Miss Margaret L., Chicago, 111. 
McDonald, F. C, White Plains, N. Y. 
McFeely, C. A., Pittsburg, Pa. 
McFeely, Mrs., Pittsburg, Pa. 
McLaughlin, T. J., Spring Lake, N. J. 
McMahon, John D., Rome, N. Y. 
McQueeney, Dr. F. J., Boston, Mass. 
Macey, Philip E., New P»edford, Mass. 
Mallison, T. T., New York, N. Y. 
Manchester, A. C, Providence, R. I. 
Mansfield, Roger D., West Medford, Mass. 
Marker, W. H., Tipton, Ind. 
Mattern, R. J., Huntington, Pa. 
Meek, William J., Fall River, Mass. 
Meek, Mrs., Fall River, Mass. 
Mills, Miss Estelle, Poughkeepsie, N. Y. 
Mitchell, Mrs. Dr., Buffalo, N. Y. 
Moore, Henry D., Philadelphia, Pa, 
Moore, Mrs., Philadelphia, Pa. 
Moorehead, G. D., Brownsville, Pa. 
Moorehead Mrs., Brownsville, Pa. 
Morgan, W. L., Mexico, N. Y. 
Morrow, Rev. James, D.D., Philadelphia, Pa. 

Newman, Dr. Henry Parker, Chicago, 111. 
Nichol, F. H., Columbus, O. 
Nichol, Mrs., Columbus, O. 
Nordstrom, G., Rockford, 111. 

Oliver, Lewis, Worcester, Mass. 
O'Connor, Miss Elizabeth, Rockford, 111. 
O'Connor, Miss Kate, Rockford, 111. 
Owens, Rev. C. A., Crawfordsville, Ga. 



THE KAISERIN. 



119 



Pagh, Wm. H., Jr., New York, N. Y. 
Pagh, Mrs., New Y^ork, N. Y. 
Palmer, E. A., Uncasville, Conn. 
Parsons, W. C, New York, N. Y. 
Peck, Robert E., Cincinnati, O. 
Penflelrt, P. S., Danbury, Conn. 
Phillips, D. L., New York, N. Y. 



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LANDING AT NASSAU, NEW PROVIDENCE. 

Pitman, Mrs. Carrie C, Brooklyn, N. Y^. 
Pitman, W. H., New Bedford, Mass. 
Plumb, Miss Priscilla H., Patterson, N. J. 
Pomeroy, Wm. R., Shelbj^, Iowa. 

Rengel, E. J., Andover, N. Y. 
Rew, E. B., Buffalo, N. Y^ 
Rew, Mrs., Buffalo, N. Y. 



120 THE CRUISE OF 



EeAv, Henry C, Evanston, 111. 

Robb, Frank F., Aspinwall, Pa. 

Robb, Mrs., Aspinwall, Pa. 

Bobbins, F. A., San Francisco, Cal. 

Bobbins, Mrs., San Francisco, CaL 

Rose, L. S., Newark, N. J. 

Rose, Mrs., Newark, N, J. 

Rothschild, Mrs. Martin, New York, N. Y. 

Russ, W. R., Boston, Mass. 

Russ, Mrs., Boston, Mass. 

Russ, Miss Gladys, Boston, Mass, 

Saxton, J. M., Bridgeport, Conn. 

Saxton, Mrs., Bridgeport, Conn. 

Schaer, Arnold, Warren, R. I. 

Schaer, Mrs., Warren, R. I. 

Schmidt, Fred W., Norristown, N. J. 

Schumo, S. L., Philadelphia, Pa. 

Schutzenbangh, Hngo, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Senn, Dr. N., Chicago, 111. 

Sherrerd, Wm. D., Philadelphia, Pa. 

Sherrerd, Mrs., Philadelphia, Pa. 

Sibley, Linus, Worcester, Mass. 

Slater, W. C, Des Moines, Iowa. 

Smalley, Rev. Albert L., D.D., Jamestown, N. Y. 

Smith, Abbott M. 

Smith, A. P., Nev/ Bedford, Mass. 

Smith, Mrs., New Bedford, Mass. 

Smith, Miss Florence, New Bedford, Mass. 

Smith, E. B., Westfield, Mass. 

Smith, H. Julius, Pompton Lakes, N. J. 

Smith, Mrs., Pompton Lakes, N. J, 



THE KAI8ERIN. 



121 



Smith, Henry L., New Bedford, Mass. 
Stearns, George R., Augusta, Ga. 
Stearns, Henry F., Montreal, Quebec. 
Stearns, W. B., Lockland, Ohio. 
Stearns, Mrs., Lockland, Ohio. 
Stearns, Master Kirk, Lockland, Ohio. 
Stearns, H. A., Pawtucket, E. I. 




CEIBA TREE, NASSAU. 

Stearns, Walter H., Pawtucket, R. I. 
Stein, Alexander, New York, N. Y. 
Stein, Mrs., New York, N. Y. 
Stephenson, James C, Brooklyn, N. Y. 
Stevens, A. C, Hamilton, Ontario. 
Stevens, H. B., Hamilton, Ontario. 
Stevens, Dr. John 0., Harrisburg, Pa. 
Stoddard, Rev. Charles A., D.D., New York. 



122 THE CRUISE OF 



Stone, E. T., Mexico, N. Y. 
Straub, George, Brooklyn, N. Y, 
Sylvia, Antonia, New Bedford, Mass. 
Synnott, Thomas W., Wenonah, N. J. 
Synnott, Mrs., Wenonah, N. J. 

Taff, Mrs. Wilhelmina, Millington, N. J. 
Thompson, Dr. Charles E., Covington, Ky. 

Vernon, Col. George W., Baltimore, Md. 
Vernon, Miss Anna D., Baltimore, Md. 

Wagenhals, Dr. F. S., Columbus, O. 
Wagenhals, Mrs., Columbus, O. 

Waite, Miss Lucy, Chicago, 111. 
Wallace, Allen B., Summit, N. J. 
Wallace, Mrs., Summit, N. J. 
Ward, Edw. T., Newark, N. J. 
Ward, Mrs., Newark, N. J. 
Ward well, John S., Rome, N. Y. 
Watkins, George W., Scranton, Pa. 
Watkins, Miss, Scranton, Pa. 
Weber, John W., Brooklyn, N. Y. 
Webster, Mrs. Louise, Chicago, 111. 
Wellaner, Jacob, Milwaukee, Wis. 
Wessels, Edward J., East Orange, N. J. 
Wessels, Mrs., East Orange, N. J. 
Whitehouse, E. J., Irvington, N. Y. 
Whitehouse, Mrs., Irvington, N. Y. 
Whitehouse, J. Henry, New York, N. Y. 
W^hitehouse, Mrs., New York, N. Y. 
Whitehouse, Miss, Brooklyn Heights, N. Y. 



THE EAI8ERIN. 125 



Willis, Henry P., New Bedford, Mass. 

Wilson, W. H., Maiden, Mass. 

Wilson, Mrs., Maiden, Mass. 

Winter, Mrs. Herman, New York, N. Y. 

Wood, George A., Newport, R. I. 

Wood, Mrs., Newport, R. I. 

Wood, George W., Toledo, O. 

Wood, J. C. 

Wolven, George C, Kingston, N. Y. 

Wolven, Mrs., Kingston, N. Y. 

Woodman, Edward, Portland, Me. 

Woodman, Mrs., Portland, Me. 

Woodman. 

Wortman, Edw., New York, N. Y. 

Wortman, Mrs., New York, N. Y. 

Wright, Miss Constance, Irvington, N. Y. 

Zweiffel, Willy, New York, N. Y. 

[These addresses are made out from the list fur- 
nished from the office of Mr. Frank C. Clark, corrected 
by the names and addresses handed in of subscribers to 
the Souvenir volume. The list is as accurate as the 
data at my command will allow. — E.] 



MAY 1 1903 



